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When assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. However, tucked near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.